1961 was a bleak year for the United States. The Soviet Union was winning the space race, the Berlin Wall was being constructed, and the Bay of Pigs was an embarrassing disaster. Though the tensions of the Cold War were rising, young people on the west coast didn’t seem to notice. Contrarily, California surf culture seemed to be getting more relaxed by the day. Dennis Wilson, a 16-year old aspiring musician from Hawthorne, Calif., was so caught up in the chill vibe that he told his bandmates, “Hey, surfing’s getting really big. You guys ought to write a song about it.”
A few simple, idyllic lyrics later, and the Beach Boys had their first single, “Surfin.’” With a hook borrowed from doo-wop and a chord progression from rock, the song didn’t provide anything new musically. It did, however, project a new worldview to contrast the dim reality of the Cold War. Amid duck and cover drills and gloomy news headlines, the Beach Boys sang about barefoot nonchalance, juvenile bliss, and non-stop fun. They built on their worldview with hits like “Surfin’ Safari,” and “Surfin’ USA.” By 1963, the California Myth had permeated the United States.
While undefined, everyone can describe the California Myth. It’s “La La Land” and “Baywatch.” Hollister, PacSun, and Patagonia. Lana del Rey’s empty beaches and her cool boyfriends with fast cars. It’s every time your obnoxious friend from California says, “I can go snowboarding and surfing in the same day.” It’s the sandy-haired boy at the umbrella stand, the high kid making smoothies at Blenders in the Grass, and the chill boss who wears flip-flops to work. It’s transformed California into more of a state of mind than a place.
That state of mind draws 67 million visitors per year from outside of California (more than any other US state). Tourists come to California for a variety of reasons. Some for the peace and love of San Francisco, others for Yosemite’s fantastic hiking. Kendrick Lamar claims they come to LA for the “women, weed, and weather.” The Beach Boys (and Katy Perry) say people come for the California Girls (or Gurls). Regardless of the initial reason, most everyone is lured in part by the California Myth. We’ve been fed images of Bel Air and Big Sur our entire lives. It would be nearly impossible to not fall for them at least a little bit.
But like any crush, the real California is not quite as magical as it’s made out to be. Like every other state, it has poverty and crime. It’s frequently running low on water, and its largest county is mostly oil fields. Even the most idealized places, like Orange County, can’t live up to their TV depictions. From what I’ve gathered by watching a few episodes of “The OC” with my obsessed siblings, Newport Beach is characterized as a picturesque community whose poorest members live on boats and in spacious apartments. All the coffee shops are locally-owned, and all the gardens are perfectly trimmed. Go 15 miles East to the real Orange County and all you’ll find is outlet malls and traffic, Starbucks storefronts disguised in adobe to make them look “authentically Californian,” and boulevards wide enough for the inhabitants to make their daily, hours-long commutes to the desert or LA.
Yet nearly 40 million people, including myself, call California home. Clearly, something magical remains beyond the Myth.
When I was 18, I moved to Santa Barbara for the beaches and the parties. It took a few months for the California Myth to wear off. Throughout my first summer, I basked in the 70° weather and Jack Johnson songs about waking up slow. However, after gobbling down my fifth In-N-Out burger and slurping that fifteenth acai bowl, the real California started to reveal itself. Six years later, I’m still here because the real California is also exceptional. Parts of the Myth hold up. I really am amazed that I can see both mountains and the ocean from my house. But some of the most lovable parts of California–namely its diversity and inclusivity–aren’t captured. Often, the California Myth completely fails to show why California is actually worth visiting.
Diversity is the most obvious miss. While in the Myth everyone is white (except Carlos Santana), the real California is one of the most diverse areas in the world. A minority-majority state, no single race makes up 50 percent of the population. Over 200 languages are spoken throughout the state, and over six percent of its residents are undocumented. While the Myth idolizes LA’s Venice Beach, Hollywood, and the Pacific Palisades, the real LA has so much more to offer. Take a trip to Boyle Heights for a refreshing walk through tasty Guisados and lively plazas. Or head to Koreatown for LA’s best karaoke, Korean barbecue, and even shopping – you’ll be surprised by all the knick-knacks you didn’t know you needed at the Dollar Store-esque Daiso Japan. And it’s not just LA that thrives off its diverse population. From Sacramento to San Diego, California is full of distinguished neighborhoods.
In addition to diversity, the Myth also misses California’s inclusivity. The Golden State is often portrayed as snobby and rude, with star-studded, gated communities, and the nation’s angriest drivers. While the drivers can be a little testy, the real California is welcoming and kind. In an increasingly divisive country, California has made it clear that all people are welcome. As a ‘sanctuary state,’ California protects families who have lived here for years, and with some of the most vibrant LBGTQ+ communities in the world, California is known as a queer-friendly state. Tourists can be confident they will be welcome in California regardless of how they look or act.
If you’re looking to visit California, believe the Myth. It doesn’t hurt. Let yourself be drawn in by images of carefree beaches and sunny weather, but stay for the friendly people and rich culture.
Here are a few ways to get the most out of your trip west:
*Drive or rent a car: California is sprawling. Whether you’re planning a trip down the Pacific Coast Highway, or just staying in one city, you’ll want to be able to get around. Los Angeles itself can feel as large as a state. If you want to get the most out of its unique areas, it’s best to have your own way to get around.
*Take your time: If New York is the city that never sleeps, California is the state that relishes a good nap. California is best enjoyed on a day with few plans, and a Cab or Corona in hand. Pare down your visit to the places you want to see most, and spend time wandering.
*Meet people: Camping, cruising, and perusing a neighborhood are all better when you listen to the locals. Talk to your waiters and hotel attendants. For such a tech- and information-heavy state, Californians are especially skilled at keeping the best restaurants, clubs, and hiking spots on the down low online. The more people you meet, the better places you’ll find.
*Buy into the magic a bit: As the Beach Boys’ Al Jardine said, “It’s not entirely a myth. There are still some elements that are certainly true, especially for a first-time observer. But to be able to come here and to drive that coast on Route 1 … you experience the water and the animals and the sea life, the whole thing. It’s really magical. It really is.”
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