Chef Ed Kenney is dressed in a short sleeved button up with jeans and an unassuming smile as he walks into one of his Honolulu-based restaurants, Mahina & Sun’s. By all accounts, the four-time James Beard Award semi-finalist and Emmy award-winning television host is just another restaurant patron stopping by for dinner and drinks, but those who have worked alongside him and know him best understand his minimal fanfare persona and approachable demeanor are just a small part of what makes him a true difference maker. It’s not the notoriety, but serving sustainable food, supporting local farmers, and being able to bring people together around a table that drives him forward. Curiosity Magazine contributor Kait Hanson sat down with Chef Ed Kenney to learn more about sustainability efforts, food waste, and his favorite meal.
What is something you wish people knew when they shopped for food?
When I shop for food—I always look for the locally-sourced option and organic when possible. By purchasing and consuming locally-sourced foods, one shows a commitment to the community, to farmers and to the ‘āina [land]. Sourcing and eating local encourages people to look at how to give back to the planet that ultimately provides us with the food we eat.
Do you have a favorite meal?
I love the “squid lū‘au” we serve at Mud Hen Water. It’s comfort food and reminds me of growing up and enjoying a meal with family and friends. The traditional dish is he‘e [octopus, also known as squid in Hawaii] braised with lū‘au [the leaf of the taro plant] and coconut milk. At Mud Hen Water, we grill the tender braised octopus as it is often done in Italy and Spain resulting in a crispy smoky exterior. We also sprinkle the dish with a seed blend of sesame, toasted coconut, kukui nut, and dried chili.
I know sustainability is important to you. What is your personal motto for making this planet and your community a better place?
My mantra is “local first, organic whenever possible, with aloha always.” Protect our waters, support regional farmers, and buy seafood from sustainable fisheries.
What do you look for in the producers you use to stock your restaurants?
I focus on working with businesses with a conscious. It’s important for me to be mindful of the people, planet, and profit that will be affected when making business decisions. There is great value in being able to have a close, physical relationship with the farms and farmers.
Any pieces of advice for ways to reduce food waste? Or actions you take to cut back?
It’s important to understand the big picture when thinking about food waste. Although individual food waste may seem insignificant to some, the reality is that individual food waste is connected to a large societal issue and affects global issues. When preparing food, it should begin with using the ingredients wisely and leaving as little waste as possible. If the food excess cannot go to people, then it should be fed to animals. And then if it can’t be fed to animals, then the food can be converted to energy or compost. For everyday consumers, it is important to shop smart by buying locally and thinking about why are you purchasing something. It’s also good to cook more and use scraps whenever possible.
What is the benefit of sourcing from small-scale farmers or producers?
Sourcing from small-scale farmers and producers is beneficial to supporting the community. You’re able to share a relationship with them that is more intimate and personal, which allows you to have a better idea of where your food is coming from. Unlike corporate producers, small-scale businesses are focused more on the quality over quantity.
What are ways to become active in the sustainable food community here in Hawaii (or elsewhere)?
I encourage people to visit a farm, like our co-producer MA’O, to understand the beauty of the farming community. It’s a really special experience to watch the sunrise, listen to them chant to our ancestors for guidance, and work together on the farm.
With all the hats you wear, so to speak, what do you consider your greatest success?
Being able to share my love of Hawaii and all of its colorful history, culture, and ingredients in the dishes I create. Also on a personal level, my family is my number one priority and my ultimate achievement.
Speaking of family, you host an Emmy award-winning PBS show, “Family Ingredients.” With all the work you do, how do you keep your family a priority?
Thursday is when my family comes to the restaurant and we sit outside and eat together. Sundays, I don’t answer the phone. We go to the North Shore or West side and sometimes we barbecue on Sunday nights. It’s a time to be immersed in family. Our restaurants are always closed on Sundays. We have 110 employees or so and we want them to be able to spend time with their families, too.
How do you want to be remembered?
Just as a hard-working guy who enjoys telling stories through food and how it brings people together. And how important it is to support local farms and use local ingredients.
