Gaziantep, known by locals as just Antep, is located in the southeastern Anatolian region of Turkey, about 60 miles north of Aleppo. After having lived there for two years, I grew to know and love the city, which is often unfairly dismissed as industrial and boring. Though other places in Turkey get more attention, Gaziantep and its UNESCO World Heritage-recognized cuisine deserve a weekend of your time.
One of the oldest continuously occupied cities in the world, Gaziantep is famous above all else for food, specifically the holy trinity of fistik (pistachio), baklava, and kebab. These staples are what you should plan your weekend in Gaziantep around.
Day One–History with a side of kebab
Start your weekend at the Tahmis coffee house. Built in 1635, the coffee house is a trip back in time over a strong Turkish brew, or, if you’re feeling adventurous, pistachio coffee. It’s usually bustling with people playing backgammon. The coffee shop is centrally located in the oldest part of the city and a perfect jumping off point to the bazaar.
The bazaar is a great place to wander and spend time exploring the tiny shops. My favorite is a Syrian silk shop in the Bedesten Carsisi, which is the renovated section of the bazaar. The owner’s father had a large shop in the Aleppo bazaar but moved to Gaziantep because of the war. He sells very ornate, handmade silk scarves. At around $100 they’re a bit pricey, but the equivalent would be around $500 in the U.S. Gaziantep is also famous for its copper pots, which you can find being made on-site.
Exiting the Carsisi puts you right on the doorstep of Imam Çeğdaş, which I would say is the best restaurant in Gaziantep. They’ve been around since 1887, and their kebabs (all of them) and baklava are amazing. If you can’t pick between kebabs, Alinazik is one of my favorites. It’s smoked eggplant puree with spiced lamb and yogurt. Simit kebab–ground lamb with bulgur, mint, and pistachio–is popular as well, though you seriously you can’t go wrong with any of them. The food is incredible.
After kebab, dive into the baklava, which is one of the top two best in the world. We’ll get to the best one later. Baklava is the first Turkish product with a European designation of origin. The secret is the Antep pistachio, which is unique to this area of the world (pro tip: don’t bring this up in front of someone from Aleppo, who claims to have the best pistachio. Really, they’re the exact same thing). Antepians are unapologetic about baklava. They all have an opinion about what’s the best and have an incredible dedication to the craft of making it. There are tons of different types, so order a few and test them.
When you leave Imam Cagdas, take a moment to get a picture of the Alaüddevle Mosque and its distinctive, faded black and white striped facade and check out the bullet holes still there from the Turkish War of Independence. The minaret is over 500 years old.
Next, stop in at the Tarihi Gumruk Hani. Don’t spend long, but go straight through the entrance and down the flight of stairs to a set of subterranean rooms where you can have coffee and tea as people have done for hundreds of years. The rooms have mock-ups of people built in traditional dress, subterranean wells (what Gaziantep was named for), and other artifacts that give you a feel for the city.
Take a right out of the Tarihi and head straight for the citadel. It’s a bit over renovated and the museum is nothing to be seen, so don’t bother going in, but do wander around the outside. There are good fruit stands, dried goods, and olive purveyors along the edge of the castle. If you’re feeling adventurous head to Democracy Park and continue west until you reach the newer part of town. From here, you should stop for a drink at Bayazhan. Built in 1904 to house caravans, it has an impressive courtyard and a beautiful old design with internal arches. The after-work crowd is usually lively and it’s a popular spot for expats. If the weather is nice, sit outside in the courtyard for an old-world feel amidst a good selection of wine, beer, and spirits.
Rather than eating at Bayazhan, save your appetite for a cheaper option five minutes down the road at Yessemek. Open 24-hours, Yessemek is one of Gaziantep’s go-to all day eateries. The kebabs are good, like everywhere in Gaziantep, but you absolutely must try their beyran, one of Gaziantep’s famous dishes. The spicy tomato broth is poured over a bottom layer of fat, rice, and shredded beef for a hearty, filling snack. Like everywhere in Antep there will be more bread than you could possibly eat. Though Antepians claim this is a breakfast food, I say it will put you to sleep if you eat it in the morning.
Day 2–All About the Food
Eschew the traditional Turkish breakfast (you’ll find better in Istanbul or elsewhere), and start your day with lahmacun, a crispy, thin bread covered in minced meat, parsley, garlic, and pepper (you should squeeze a little lemon on top). You can find it at any number of local bakeries, but only before 9 a.m. If you don’t want beef, the other classic breakfast food is mercimek, a yellow lentil soup.
From breakfast, hop in a cab and head to the Zeugma Mosaic Museum. It’s filled with the mosaics from Zeugma, originally founded as a Greek settlement by one of Alexander the Great’s generals. The spacious museum claims to be the largest mosaic museum in the world. While not the most sophisticated, the mosaics themselves are incredibly ornate and comprehensive. They’ve recreated entire floors and rooms, creating a powerful experience. Be sure to view the Gypsy Girl mosaic, which you will have seen pictures of all over the city. Though one of the smallest pieces, it is dynamic and impressive. Wander the full museum to see some of the other artifacts and statues from Gaziantep’s incredibly long history.
If you’re hungry (or actually, even if you’re not) stop for one of Antep’s best and most inexpensive treats–chicken doner. Döner shops are ubiquitous throughout the city. This street food is one of the most common lunch items and for around $1 you get thinly sliced, spit-roasted chicken breast laid on freshly baked pide (the equivalent of Greek flatbread but way better), often with a few french fries thrown on top. The bread is always fresh. You usually see someone running it in from the bakery while you’re there. The best places have a serve-yourself salad bar with a few staple ingredients that you can add as you like. Those ingredients include sumac covered onions, thinly shredded lettuce, red cabbage in vinegar, homemade pickles, and other pickled vegetables (white cabbage and carrots), tomatoes, and lemons. I literally ate this every single day for two years. It was and is my favorite food.
After döner, you should get your daily (or twice daily) dose of baklava at what is considered the best baklava spot in Gaziantep, and without any exaggeration, in the world–Koçak. When you’re there, take time to take in all the different types of baklava they have on offer. Order a bunch of different types, sit down with some tea, and sample them all.
Next, wander the town long enough to build up an appetite again. Gaziantep is a World Heritage Site for the food, after all.
The newest hot-spot in Antep (only semi-ironically saying that) is HSVH (pronounced hash-vah-han). Built in a renovated granery, it wouldn’t be out of place in any European capital with its old brick, refurbished steel, and glass floor so you can look down on the workings of the granary while you eat. If you’re there in nice weather, sit in the courtyard for views of the castle lit up at night. Though it’s more expensive than other places in Antep, the drinks are nice and the wine menu showcase some of Turkey’s best vineyards. All the food is good, but the mezze plates are probably the most rewarding and are presented beautifully. They’re served in old metal containers on a big copper plate. It’s a great spot for evening drinks or happy hour.
If you’re still hungry after (actually again, even if you’re not), go to either Kebapci Halil Usta or Metanet Lokantasi, two of the most celebrated kebab restaurants in town. Get the roasted eggplant kebab. The way they put the fat in the ground beef and the way it caramelizes when it’s roasted, mixed with roasted eggplant is incredible. It’s not a light meal, but it’s worth it.
Finally, act like a local and get a couple of boxes of baklava for the trip home. It’s standard practice before boarding a flight. I hope you enjoyed your time in one of the world’s most ancient cities with some of the most celebrated, enduring culinary traditions.
