In the U.S., the term “Neufchâtel” is associated with low-fat cream cheese – a shame, considering the uniquely shaped French cheese that has borne this name since the 6th century.
Touted as the oldest Norman cheese, Neufchâtel is similar in some ways to another local specialty, Camembert, thanks to its bloomy white rind. But Neufchâtel has two unique characteristics: its texture, which is thicker and grainier than creamy Camembert, and its shape – a perfect heart.
While a heart-shaped cheese might seem strange, Patrick Chevalier, Grand Master of the Confrérie des Compagnons du Fromage Neufchâtel, says this form finds its roots in practicality. Back in the days of wooden molds, heart-shaped cheeses were easier to unmold because there was less cheese surface sticking to the wood.
“There are a few cheeses made in a heart shape,” he says, citing the Northern French Coeur dit d’Arras. “Of course it’s very limited – there aren’t a lot. It’s still a very original shape.”
But this particular heart-shaped cheese has another claim to fame as a tastier (albeit stinkier) predecessor to heart-shaped chocolate boxes: a token of love.
During the 100 Years War, a series of conflicts waged from 1337 to 1453 by the English house of Plantagenet in an attempt to take control of the French throne, the town of Neufchâtel-en-Bray was crawling with English soldiers. As is often the case with occupying forces, local women fell for the Englishmen, and as a token of their affection, they presented them with the local cheese.
“The local women fell in love with the English soldiers, and once the soldiers had gone back home, every year at Christmas, they would make and send them a heart-shaped cheese,” says Chevallier.
It’s a sweet story that Chevallier recognizes may have been embellished a bit over time.
“There may be a base of truth,” he says. “We don’t really know. There aren’t a ton of videos from that time!”
He likes to maintain the origin story anyway.
“It’s a nice legend, and I like to preserve it,” he says. “I think it’s a beautiful story.”
