On stormy, summer nights, sounds from the Santa Fe Opera echo through its open air backdrop and out into the New Mexican heat. They float out over the Southernmost remnants of the Rocky Mountains, on toward the nuclear laboratories at Los Alamos, and into one of the southwest’s best kept secrets—an active volcano known as the Valles Caldera.
You and I would probably call the caldera a crater. Geologists call it a scar from a massive volcanic eruption some 1.25 million years ago. Valles is a close cousin to America’s most notorious supervolcano at Yellowstone. Its eruption was hundreds of times more powerful than the 1980 Mount St. Helens explosion. The blast blanked the sky in rock, mineral, and ash, creating the crater visible today, and leaving volcanic deposits across much of the surrounding region.
The depression is more than 13 miles in diameter. It covers 89,000 acres. And yet, despite its massive size and close proximity to Santa Fe—just over an hour’s drive away— Valles Caldera remains relatively unknown to non-locals.
This remote preserve is still fairly undeveloped. A single, paved road transverses the caldera, providing access to adventure opportunities within the preserve’s boundaries. Inside, you’ll find a land of the lost, as golden eagles, black bear, elk, and bobcats make their home in the meadows and forests under the crater’s rim.
To make the most of a visit, you’ll want to ditch the highway, make for one of the preserve’s trailheads, and get dirty.
Exploring Valles Caldera
Hiking – For day hikers, the East Fork Trail offers a relatively easy 3.2-mile round trip with an elevation gain of 124 feet. The trail begins at the Los Conchas Trailhead near Jemez Springs. It’s a favorite for locals who come to walk their dogs and spend a few hours strolling alongside the river towards Jemez Falls.
Six miles north of Jemez Springs, you’ll find a turnoff for San Antonio Hot Springs. These natural springs feed off of geothermal energy produced by the broiling planet below, and they’re easily accessible for those willing to hike or drive a 4×4 to their location. If you choose the later route, be sure to grab a backcountry vehicle permit before setting out.
Forest Road 376 will drop you off less than a mile from the hot springs, which sit nestled into a nearby mountainside. In winter months, it’s possible to snowshoe here.
Mountain Biking – Prior to becoming a national preserve in 2000, the majority of Valles Caldera was part of a private ranch. Nearly two decades later, the old ranch roads and cattle trails have been repurposed by mountain bikers and bikepackers who come to soak in tranquility.
Climbing – If you’re handy with a rope and harness, the cliffs of the caldera can keep you busy all weekend. Routes from the Las Conchas Trailhead range from a rookie-level 5.6 to highly technical 5.12 climbs. The most well-traveled routes along the trail—Cattle Call Wall, The Sponge, Gateway, and Easy Bake Oven—all offer well-maintained anchors and multiple sends.
Day use trails abound throughout the park, though bikepacking.com has outlined a rigorous, three day journey through the preserve.
Fishing – Some local anglers mention Valles Caldera in a hushed whisper. The preserve’s streams have been open to fishing for less than a decade. In short time, they’ve become a revered destination for catching brown trout.
The reputation is partly due to the limited number of fishing permits issued in the preserve each day—about two dozen—but also due to the extreme beauty of its surroundings and the aggressive nature of its resident trout. Travelers interested in fishing the Caldera should check with the park office before setting out, as an orientation is required along with a permit.
Horseback Riding – Horseback riding is permitted within the caldera, though rentals are not available. If you’re interested in riding through the heart of the crater, Valle Grande, you’ll need to bring your own stead.
If you’ve found yourself in the middle of the high desert with a hankering to climb on a horse, but, like most readers, don’t have access to your own, consider trekking up to Ghost Ranch. Located 70 miles from Valles Caldera, Georgia O’Keefe’s former residence houses its own stables under the shadow of the Jemez Mountains.
Make a pitstop at Abiquiu’s Plaza Blanca on your way to hike slot canyons deposited by Valles Caldera’s eruption over a million years ago.
