Travel is easier than ever before, and it seems there’s almost nowhere that hasn’t been written about or Instagrammed to death.
It was no surprise then, that when Saudi Arabia announced it would start issuing tourist visas last week–for the first time ever except for religious pilgrimage–travel media started buzzing. Travel magazines jumped at the news and bloggers and Instagrammers took to their platforms to promote the desert kingdom as “the next new” destination for intrepid travelers.
We’re more skeptical. Yesterday was the anniversary of journalist Jamal Khashoggi’s murder. He–a U.S. resident working for The Washington Post, a U.S. publication–was killed at the hands of the Saudi government for publishing critical pieces. It is suspected that Mohammad bin Salman (often called MBS), the Crown Prince of Saudi Arabia who has been promoting his Vision 2030 plan and talking about modernizing the kingdom, was behind it.
Now, because of a growing population–33 million people, about 40% younger than 25–an unemployment rate of about 13%, and an economy that is almost solely reliant on oil, which it turns out might not be so reliable in the future after all, Saudi Arabia is looking for new areas of investment to diversify its economy. Tourism could account for 10% of GDP by 2030.
The shocking act of sawing a journalist into pieces isn’t the only thing that makes us hesitant. Under MBS, Saudi Arabia has “waged a campaign to silence dissidents, held 200 business leaders prisoner inside a Ritz-Carlton, jailed and tortured female activists seeking basic freedoms, kidnapped the prime minister of a sovereign nation and fueled a devastating war in Yemen,” as the Washington Post’s Fred Ryan put it. We’ll add horrific treatment of migrant workers to the list. Freedom House gives Saudi Arabia a seven out of 100 (one being the least free, 100 the most) on its ‘freedom score’ calculator. All this while MBS touts progress. Yes, there have been small changes for women: the right to drive, a lifted travel ban. It’s not enough.
Hold on…you might be thinking. Leaders of other countries do terrible things too, including in the United States and Europe. True. China, for example, is currently detaining more than 1 million ethnic Uighurs and other Muslims while also cracking down on pro-democracy activists in Hong Kong. Myanmar carried out an ethnic cleansing of its Rohingya population last year. For the last few years, Italy has taken an alarmingly hostile stance on migrants, something that will hopefully end now that a new government is in place. The United States is holding migrants in horrific, inhumane conditions at the border. And these are just a few of many, many examples worldwide.
So where should travelers draw the line? There is, after all, a benefit to visiting many of these places. You learn something and come home to tell about it, and the people you interact with learn from you. Saudi citizens took to social media last week to voice their excitement at the potential influx of tourism, and we’re excited for them. A country’s citizens shouldn’t be punished or demonized for their government’s actions, and you can learn about and enjoy and respect a culture without endorsing its authorities. Instead of blacklisting places on strictly moral grounds (there would be nowhere left to visit), we look at how tourists contribute to human rights violations. In other words, it’s all about the money.
Tourism + $$$
Tourism helps economies, whether in Italy, China, or the United States. But often, tourists can use their dollars to help individuals, rather than oppressive governments. That’s harder in places like Saudi Arabia, the United Arab Emirates (which is basically built on tourism but has a dark side), Iran, Cuba, China, or Myanmar, to name a few.
Saudi Arabia announced agreements with regional and international investors worth about 27 billion USD to develop the tourism sector. That includes agreements between the General Investment Authority and the Commission for Tourism and National Heritage, and airlines, hotels, and restaurants. The government is heavily invested in the tourism sector, and will profit from many hotel stays, meals in restaurants, and other tourist attractions. The Kingdom Holding Company owns stake in the Four Seasons, Fairmont Hotels, Rotana Group (the largest entertainment company in the Arab world), and many other tourism-related companies. Unsurprisingly, the holding company is headed by Prince Al-Waleed bin Talal, a member of the Saudi Royal family.
Tourists have to think about where their tourism dollars are going, and if they’re ok with funneling them straight to a regime that suppresses journalists, tortures dissenters, and doesn’t grant basic rights to a large percentage of its population, that’s their choice. But know that to some extent, if you go you are complicit. We’re picking on Saudi Arabia, but travelers should think about this everywhere, and especially in countries where government funding is hard to separate from the tourism industry.
Be a Better Traveler
Before you go:
Think about why you want to visit a place. Is it because you’ve always had an interest in the history or culture, have done research or studied it in the past, have a platform where you feel you can bring a new perspective, or another reason you can clearly articulate? Or is it because it’s the next big thing, because you want to see it before it’s “ruined,” or because you like the thrill of going somewhere seemingly off-limits? Motivations matter.
If you decide to visit:
Do your research and try to support businesses not funded by the government while traveling. If there are opportunities to interact with individuals, take them. This will require extra planning and time, and in some cases might not be entirely possible. Put in the effort and do your best.
In Cuba, for example, you can eat and stay at a casa particular. In Iran there are plenty of local businesses to support. North Korea, on the other hand, makes it impossible to visit without supporting the government. Visitors must go on a state-run, chaperoned tour. Not only are you supporting one of the world’s most repressive dictators, you won’t actually see anything “real.” Don’t go.
Be responsible with what you share:
Travelers, especially travel writers, or those with blogs or large social media followings, have a responsibility to share facts about places they visit, and to be honest with their readers and followers. Do not promote stereotypes or spread praise where it is not deserved. Recently, Instagrammers have been visiting Saudi Arabia in a social media campaign sponsored by the government. Because it is government-sponsored, the posts have been glowing, showing the natural beauty and UNESCO World Heritage Sites, praising Bedouin hospitality and the country’s cuisine (all of which is true and great), without talking about any elements that could be seen as negative.
Like Hala Aldosari, a fellow at M.I.T.’s Center for International Studies and an activist from Saudi Arabia, told the New York Times: “The idea is that tourists who are interested in historical sites and visiting the main cities and seeing performances organized by authorities are welcome, but they are not welcome to share knowledge, influence, political thought and analysis. It is still vague how Saudi Arabia plans to deal with people breaking the rules — will it deport them? Detain and investigate? Torture?”
In some egregious cases, Instagrammers are posting what reads like government propaganda and doing things no regular tourist not on a government-sponsored media tour would be allowed to do. It’s irresponsible and unethical.
Do what you can to speak with residents and avoid government-sponsored tours. Your experience will be richer and more informative in every way. In many countries it might not be safe to post anything critical while there (and we definitely don’t want you to put yourself in danger), but when you return home try to be thoughtful and honest in your reporting–whether to family and friends or your 50K followers.
Be respectful of local customs:
This is a rule no matter where you are in the world. Saudi Arabia has rules for tourists, and it takes only a few seconds to Google dress codes and customs for other places. Our guide series can also help.
The “Should I Go There?” Checklist
- Do your research. What is going on in the place you’re thinking about visiting? What are the politics like? What major social justice and civil rights issues are there? How invested is the government in the tourism industry?
- Weigh the pros and cons–is visiting worth it despite the fact that you could inadvertently support something you disagree with? What are the benefits that can be derived from visiting? Do they outweigh the negatives?
- Spend your money wisely. If you’re not ok with what the government is doing somewhere, do your best to not support it with your dollars. Support local, independent businesses as often as possible.
- Stay curious! Once on the ground, talk with people and learn as much as you can.
- Stay safe. Be respectful of local customs and don’t put yourself in risky situations.
- When it comes to social media, think about what you’re sharing and why.
In the end, when visiting many places you will–whether intentionally or not–give money to a government that will use it for upsetting purposes. You are also going to see part of the world and expose it to other people, and hopefully learn something along the way. Others, both in the place you’re visiting and at home, will hopefully learn something from you. It’s a balancing act, and one you should think about critically whenever you plan a trip. But that’s part of being a better traveler.
